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Kaits
klubiliige
Registreerunud 01.03.03
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: RS 6 Avant
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postitati 01.04.04 19:35
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RS6 4.2 biturbo ostuabi, informatsioon ja edasiarendus
Paar linki uue mudeli kohta:
http://www.car.ee/news/2004-03-31/audi-rs6-plus/ee
Kui keegi leiab mõne parema/põhjalikuma lingi siis võiks postitada siia teemasse!
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"RS6 is like a supermodel girlfriend - extremely high maintenance, but now and again, worth every penny."
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 25.06.09 13:58
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RS6 4.2 biturbo ostuabi, informatsioon ja edasiarendus
Mõned huvitavad faktid jutu sees.
The Audi RS6 was a high-performance version of Audi's 2nd generation (1997-2005) A6, and was available as both a sedan and a wagon (called Avant
by Audi). It was second at the top of the A6 lineup, above the A6 2.7T and 4.2 and the lesser S6, and was exceeded in power and price only by the RS6
Plus. It effectively replaced both the S6 4.2 and S6 Plus models of 1995.
The RS6 featured a twin-turbocharged version of the corporate 4.2 Litre V8 engine tuned by Cosworth Technologies (Now known as Mahle
Powertrain), which had originally been developed for the 1994 A8. With the aid of the turbochargers, output rose to 444 hp (331 kW) and 415
ft·lbf (560 Nm) of torque. The combination of the V-8 and the turbochargers helped give the RS6 an exceptionally wide power band, with peak torque
available from 1950 to 5600 RPMs.
The RS6 was available only with Audi's Quattro All-Wheel Drive system and a 5-speed "Tiptronic" transmission, the same unit that was being
used in the W12 powered A8, chosen because none of Audi's manual transmissions could cope with the RS6's high torque output. The RS6 also served as
the debut model for Audi's Dynamic Ride Control (DRC) system. The system is mainly mechanical, and uses a pump to keep pressure in the shock
abosorbers during cornering to counteract rolling and pitching. The system is "intelligent", it is able to adjust the stiffness at each shock
absorber constantly to maintain both a comfortable ride and high grip. However, DRC's main advantage is that it operates without the need for most of
the complicated electronics required in similar systems from Mercedes Benz and other competitors.
According to testing by Car and Driver magazine, the RS6 can accelerate from 0 - 60 mph (0 - 96.6 km/h) in just 4.4 seconds, 0 - 100 in 10.7 seconds
and has an electronically limited top speed of 155 mph (250 km/h), however the vehicle can reportedly hit 170 miles per hour or more in unlimited
form. It can stop from 60 mph (96.6 to 0 km/h) in 118 feet (35.97m), thanks to its large 365/335 mm (14.4/13.2 in) front/rear brakes, and an
uncommon eight-piston design in the front.
There was also an RS6 Plus version of the car producing over 480 bhp and topping 180 mph. The car came only as an avant and was sold only in European
markets. It lasted for just one model year but quickly sold out once it was released.
New versions of the S6 and RS6 will soon be in development, based on the new A6 platform, which was introduced in 2005 for the 2006 model year.
While about 8000 RS6s were produced worldwide, approximately 1,200 units were sold in North America. A small community of RS6 owners exists in North
America and some refer to the vehicle as "The Beast" or "The Lord of the Rings" (in reference to Audi's interlocking ring logo). RS
stands for RennSport - Racing in German, fitting as the RS line of cars from Audi are the most performance oriented of all Audis.
Awards
The 4.2 V8 engine in its base configuration was named as one of the Ward’s Auto World "10 Best Engines for 2005".
The RS6's combination of performance, handling (AWD), luxury and available space are unique and it was chosen over its closest competitors,
the BMW M5, Jaguar S-Type R, and Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG by Car and Driver magazine.
LINK
Üks asjakohane video.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 24.03.10 09:31
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RS6 4.2 biturbo ostuabi, informatsioon ja edasiarendus
Audi RS6 - DIY Boost Leak Tester
Audi RS6 - Lightweight Battery
Install
Audi RS6 - Replacing Vacuum Lines
Audi RS6 - Transmission logging
2003 Audi RS6 - new purchase
First let me say that the Audi brand and vehicles can be so addictive. First an A4 then a S4 and now the mighty RS6. I wasn't even looking for a new
(to me) car until Brandon happen to mention there was an R8 at the import dealership in town. Loretta looked at their Web site and saw they had an
2003 Audi RS6. At first wasn't interested because I had no reason to get sell the Audi S4. When I drove the RS6, that all changed.....
I wasn't sure I would even like the RS6 because it is automatic and a bigger chassis. After learning from the dealer that the owner had a chip and
exhaust installed, I was more interested. The stock HP figures were 450hp and he said this one had over 500hp. At that time all I knew it had was a
computer chip and a cat-back exhaust. I drove it and the power was amazing and spool up time for the turbos were really quick. The transmission had
normal automatic mode (drive), sport mode (automatic downshifts and quicker shifts), and full manual mode with paddle shifters.
After working with the dealership for a while, we came to an acceptable price for purchase. So I bought the car and traded in our 2004 Dodge Durango
because we were no longer going to need it to haul the trailer and Formula Ford. I drove it home and every time I stepped on the gas it made me smile.
What I love about turbos is if you drive the car normal you don't realize you have more power. Plus when I was easy on the accelerator I was getting
25mpg on the highway.
Once I got the car home I learned that the car had quite a few more modifications than originally known. Even the dealership didn't know all the
modifications until we signed the deal, which made the price even more satisfying.
Here is the list of current modifications:
O.CT engine chip (increased boost and top speed limiter removed)
O.CT transmission chip option (quicker shifts)
PSS9 Coil over and 9-way adjustable dampers and springs (ride height and dampening adjustable)
Hotchkis sport front and rear sway bars
K&N air filter
19"x9" wheels with 255/40/19 tires (selling with the S4)
Milltek stainless steel cat-back exhaust systems
Milltek turbo downpipes with high flow cats
Hyperboost diverter valves
With all of the above modifications it is faster and handles better than the stock RS6, which is an amazing feat giving its super car status.
Specifications (modified): Engine: 4.2L V-8 Bi-Turbo (twin turbo) Power: 530hp / 515ft/lbs (at the crank) Weight: 4050lbs 0-60: 3.92-4.0 -
verified on 12/6/2009 with averaged G-tech runs 1/4 mile - 12.0 seconds - estimated Top speed: 195mph Mileage: 30,700.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 25.12.10 09:45
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turbo vahejahutite vahetus
Jonmurgie
Often with intercooler upgrades you don't get more power directly (i.e. you'd need to remap) but you do get a good does of TORQUE... which is why
you're feeling it smoother and progressive
Doug
They do flow freer so you probably are running a bit more boost(that and no leaks now) than before and running more efficiently as well.
LINK
Wagner'i link
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 04.01.11 23:37
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Mitteametlik ostuabi
The unofficial RS6 buyers guide
el_ringo
Hi
If you are looking to join the ‘RS6 club’ then I hope the information below will make picking the right car easier (and reduce repeated help posts). I
don’t claim to be an expert and if there is anything I have missed I’m sure the other regular members of the forum will add bits below.
There is only one rule when it comes to RS6 club and that is you don’t talk about the cost to your other half (if applicable) because you
will be in trouble! These cars are very expensive to run.
Most cars at the time of writing are for sale around £18,000 with some low mileage examples perhaps a little more. If you are struggling to raise the
cash to get one then an RS6 is not for you. It will cost at least 30% of the purchase price to run in the first year and a lot more if anything should
go wrong. If you have the cash then read on....
Getting the right car is vital, don’t let a high mileage put you off because these are perhaps one of the best made cars of their time but like any
car they do have bits go wrong. The only issue you will have with the >100,000mi cars is getting a warranty much beyond that. They are a great
safety net but some are not worth the paper they are written on.
A good service history is vital but beware many bits beyond the regular services are expensive and may have been missed off. The 10k/12mth service is
about £250 and the 20k is £400 odd (prices are based on independent garages - more detail below)
Here is a check list of the major bits that you should look out for in no particular order:-
Cam belt
The current thinking is ~4 years or 40,000mi. This will cost around £1200 and make sure the thermostat, water pump, rollers and tensioners have been
done at the same time. The labour to change those is the same and you will also know the coolant has been done. (some garages quote a very cheap belt
change but then miss out those extras)
Brakes
This is variable but they can last 20,000mi or just a day if you take it to a track! There are two types of disc; the drilled and the non-drilled.
The drilled are more expensive so budget £700 for a pair at front and £500 at the back.
Gearbox
Not a lot you can tell unless on a test drive but they do break and cost the price of a small car when they do. Check the changes are smooth and once
warm the lock-up clutch should engage and rarely slip. (it won’t lock when cold)
Suspension
You will read a lot about the Dynamic Ride Control (DRC) but one thing is for certain it WILL fail! A growing majority will recommend that this be
replaced by an aftermarket coil over. They are more firm than DRC and the three most common are listed below. The DRC springs are black but the
coilovers can be identified by the colour of the spring but expect it to be covered in dirt!
KW v3 – (yellow) v.firm, fully adjustable (but not on the car), won’t corrode
Bilstein PSS9 – (blue) firm, rebound adjustable, and some corrosion issues in the past
H&R – (red) lowest cost, less firm, not adjustable but may sag when fully laden
Other bits that you need to look out if the car passes the above are:-
Tyres
Again variable depending on how hard you drive the car but as a minimum it will be £150 a corner. Some brands can rub so choose carefully and avoid
very soft compounds.
Intercoolers
The seals can leak causing a loss of boost. Although this doesn’t sound too bad it can over-work the turbos and cause them to fail – cost ~ £1000 OEM
more for higher performance coolers.
MAF, N75, DVs
These three parts are key in getting sound performance. No set guide about when to change them but renewing them every few years will keep the car
sharp.
TPMS
Tyre pressure monitors, handy to have but if these are dead look at £350 plus fitting for new ones. Many people just turn the system off.
Modified Cars
You will also find many of vehicles that have been modified in one way or another. As long as this has been done well don’t let this put you off. You
will probably find that you will do the same in time. I won’t go into detail but here are the most common ones:-
ECU remap
Reprogramming the engine will unleash the cars full potential. Expect 10% more power and 25% torque. Lots of companies offer this e.g. MTM, MRC and
Custom Code maps are just three. The gearbox may also need reprogramming.
Exhaust & Cats
Can be done in various stages depending on how much you want the car tuned but most would agree the car sounds much, much better!
Suspension
As above with the coil overs but bigger anti-roll bars e.g. Hotchkis transforms the car in the bends. Not essential but recommended.
RNS-E
The later version of the stereo and sat-nav, modernises the car but quite expensive if you add Bluetooth and digital TV. If you want to get this done
look up ‘craigyb’ on the forum he is very knowledgeable and upgrades lots of units.
There are more upgrades such as brake cooling ducts, larger brakes, aero wipers, filters etc. They are beyond the scope of this guide though.
Pre-purchase Inspections
Get an expert to look at the car first; many of the nationwide inspection companies will not do high performance cars. I would recommend the guys
mentioned below.
Servicing
Once you have the car it is important the right people look after the car. My recommended independent specialists are Unit20 and MRC. I personally
make the 500mi trip to see Martin aka ‘Grizz’ at Unit 20 for all of the work on the car. Main dealers have a mixed reputation but one of note is
Camberley Audi – many satisfied customers on here.
Hopefully after reading this you will have the fundamentals of RS6 ownership and enjoy the car as much as I and other forum members do.
Ross
aka_dk
I would add that for rear brakes, there is an option to fit VW Phaeton discs which are significantly cheaper than OEM RS6, but are heavier and are not
drilled, and required a washer on the bolt to fit
Also, on the gearbox, Audi claim the oil is for life, this is rubbish and a gearbox service will do it the world of good and help prolong its life, so
factor this into your servicing plans (circa £250?)
re. Servcing, the prices quoted are good for Independant, for Main Dealer prices see:
- 10k circa £350
- 20k circa £650
RNSE prices are around £600 from ebay, and these can be installed DIY with the right research
Popular aftermarket exhaust is Milltek, cat back start circa £800.
Choice of resonated or non resonated.
The RS 6 chassis and insulation is fantastic with the non-resonated, the intrusion to the cabin is minimal, but the noise outside is AMAZING
Daveperc
I would say that most of us would say that if you have an ECU remap, then the TCU should be done too, if only to protect the box.
On exhaust, Resonated is quieter than non-res
Dave
aka_dk
oh and onething not mentioned it MPG
if its a concern, forget buying an RS6.
If you do average mix of driving and dont want to lose your license, you will see 19mpg on the DIS (driver information system) which can be slightly
out of kilter with the real world, so call it 17/18mpg
On a long motorway run on cruise control at 70mph, its good for 25 - 29mpg
Viimane kommentaar on muidugi hea, et kui kütusekulu on mureks, siis see auto pole sulle.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 04.01.11 23:46
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Vedrustuse vahetamine ja Phaetoni pidurijahutuse lisamine
Bilstein Suspension + Phaeton Brake Cooling
Upgrade Install
Rich_C
Guys,
Well it�s been a busy weekend for me. On Friday I had an early start to get over to Grizz�s for him to fit my
PSS9�s, new brake discs + pads and Phaeton brake cooling modification. I�ve tried to keep a photograph diary of what was done
and I�ve posted my views further down on the end result.
For starters I should probably thank Grizz for doing the work in the first place plus acknowledge/thank skiwi from RS6.com whose instructions on how
to do the Phaeton brake upgrade proved invaluable.
The next thing to cover is why I�ve ended up doing this modification. Well in all honesty I�ve just got fed up with having the
car with dodgy suspension and frequent visits to my local dealership. It�s had 6 new shocks and 2 new gas valves in the space of 12 months
and it�s still not sorted. It�s been so long since I had a healthy DRC system I can�t remember what it was like to
drive before. I�m also at the point of paranoia where I�m waiting for it to fail and although the current shocks
weren�t leaking at the time we came to swap the suspension out, in my mind it was only a matter of time before one or more failed again.
My faith in the dealerships ability to fix and maintain the DRC is minimal although the problem does lie in the initial design. Unfortunately my
experience to date shows that allegedly the dealerships hands are tied by the extended warranty company who will only authorise direct replacement of
the failed shock. The only way to fix this problem is for the dealership to change both opposing shocks plus gas valve - but even then my personal
belief is that it�s only a matter of time before failure reoccurs.
So for anybody in a similar position to me contemplating this upgrade here�s the list of parts you need.
***Bilstein PSS9 Kit ([url= http://www.bilstein.de/cms_website/root/index.php?page_id=117&cms_produkt_id=2]clicky-clicky[/url])***
Avant = 006489
Saloon = 005785
Note although the saloon and avant variants have different catalogue numbers if you check on the Bilstein website they both have the same product
numbers (GM5-8868) � kind of makes sense given that both spring and damper rates are fully adjustable. Here�s a link to Bilstein Website.
It is also worth noting that you can really feel the quality of the Bilstein kit once you�ve got them out of the box � they
really look the biz plus from my perspective it�s certainly felt like I�ve got my monies worth.
As an aside, coincidentally Grizz had another client there on the day who had bought & installed a different brand of coil over on his MX5 for a
little under the cost of the equivalent Bilstein kit � he was already having a number of issues and suffice to say it really
didn�t compare quality wise to the Bilstein set-up.
*** Other Suspension Bits***
Qty Item Part Number
1-pair Front suspension top mounts 4D0 412 377 F
1-pair Rear suspension top mounts 8E0 512 121 D
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/2_Rear_Mounts.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/5_Front_Mounts.jpg
I would strongly advise you to change the above OEM suspension components whilst you�ve got the suspension off. My car is over 4 years old
so the rubber mounts have seen a fair amount of service. It also highlighted some of the issues I�ve been having with the OEM DRC
suspension which I will elude to on a different thread.
***Brake Discs & Pads****
Qty Item Part Number
1-pair Front Brake Discs (Cross drilled variety) 4B3 615 302 A
4B3 615 301 E
1-set Front Brake Pads (for 1 pair of front discs as above) 4B3 698 151 A
1-set Front Disc Securing Parts 3D0 698 269
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/4_Discs__Pads.jpg
I bought these from DSGWagen on ebay � service was excellent and prices just as good. I can supply contact details if required
� there�s really no need to go via ebay and you can save yourself an extra 4% by contacting him directly.
***Phaeton Parts***
Qty Item Part Number
1-pair VW Phaeton front brake backing plates 3DO 615 311 C
3DO 615 312 C
1-pair VW Phaeton front brake air ducts 3D0 615 447D
3DO 615 448D
4-off Brake bolts N10 065 002
8-off Securing bolts N90 842 903
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/3_Phaeton_Parts.jpg
A full list of tools and parts are listed as part of skiwi�s write-up � refer to RS6.com for full instructions on how to do this upgrade. Again parts
were sourced through DSGWagen although Vagparts were marginally cheaper but combining postage was best for me.
Right �so lets get started. First thing was to get it on the ramp and get the wheels off �.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/1_Ramp.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Rear_Wheels_off.jpg
Next off came the rear discs & callipers. Grizz�s approach was to loosen all the joints but not actually undo or remove any of the
suspension components. That way when it�s all tightened up there�s no need for realignment. This does mean that
it�s a bit of battle getting the rear shock out � it required both of us plus leverage from a long crow bar to persuade the old
shock out. We found it best to lift the upper suspension arm up and then use the crowbar to force the lower suspension arm down. This provided
enough space to angle the old shock out from the bottom � once it was clear of the lower suspension arm it was a simple case of removing
it. Rather interestingly the DRC fluid when drained was heavily aerated with lots of tiny bubbles � not good.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Rear_Suspension_off.jpg
Here�s old vs new �
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Rear_side_by_side.jpg
It was then a simple case of bolting the new mount onto the Bilstein shock.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Rear_Bilstein_with_cap.jpg
Before putting the shock back on the car it�s worth setting the damping rate via the little dial on the shock body as it�s
tricky to get to � Grizz and I have both of ours set to 4. �
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Bilstein_Dial.jpg
Putting it back on the car � new going on was a lot simpler than old coming off - here�s what it looks like installed
�.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Rear_with_Bilstein_on.jpg
So with rears done it was onto the fronts � although there�s a lot more parts getting the front shock off was a lot simpler than
the rears. Here�s what it looked like �
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Front_Hub.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Front_No_Shock.jpg
Here�s an old vs new shot
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Front_side_by_side.jpg
Here�s a pic with the suspension installed.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Front_Bilstein_on.jpg
So with suspension on we tackled the phaeton brake cooling upgrade next. Here�s a pic of the OEM RS6 backing plate � note the
absence of any scoops �
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/RS6_Backing_Plate.jpg
Here�s a pic of the larger Phaeton backing plate vs the RS6 backing plate.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Backing_Plate_side_by_side.jpg
Essentially if you follow skiwi�s instructions you can�t go wrong. I had cut a MDF template of the backing plate out before
hand which we offered up to the strut � we just then scored around the strut to get the shape, cut out the part from the template and used
this to mark up the backing plate. Grizz with the use of a pneumatic hacksaw made short work of the metal cutting � if you�re
doing it by hand then make sure you have your weetabix as theres some double thickness sections you�ll need to cut through. In the end we
fastened the backing plate using 3 out of the 4 holes and simply put the 4th screw into the upper hole to make sure it didn�t get filled
with gunk over time. It certainly feels strong enough with just 3 fasteners in place. Grizz turned the strut bolts around (option
�b� on skiwi�s list) which seemed to be perfectly fine. The only issue is that on full lock the edge of the air
scoop pushes up against the xenon light automatic adjuster. It stopped touching if I backed off full lock by a � turn Without cutting a
good chunk off of the scoop which kind of defeats the object of the exercise there�s not much you can do. So in the end I�ve
just got to remember to not go on full lock - which isn�t exactly a regular occurrence. Here�s the installed product
�
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Phaeton_On.jpg
And finally, it was a simple case (� or so we thought) of getting the new front discs & pads on � more on this as part of a
different thread.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/Rich_C/RS6/Front_Discs__Pads.jpg
So with wheels back all that was required was to set the ride height. After a little experimentation I decided to go with a 100mm gap between the top
of the rim (19� Audi OEM) and the bottom of the wheel arch. The kit can go much lower but it maintained the same gap between the wheel
arch and tyre all the way around. Having parked next to another RS6 at the track day at Croft circuit they both look remarkably similar in stance.
As an aside, Grizz is running MTM bimoto�s (lovely � could even be tempted away from my desired Sportec Mono�s) are
running 275/30 tyres which fill the arches a bit more so he�s gone with a 75mm gap which looks spot on � much meaner and more
aggressive.
So what are my thoughts after a few days with the suspension on. Well so far I�m very pleased with it. Although you can�t see
much of it with the wheels on it feels like a quality product. The car feels lovely and taught when pushing on � the initial body roll I
had with the OEM DRC system has all but been eliminated - it feels wonderfully planted and I think I can feel more of what the car is doing underneath
me. Ride quality is the same as with DRC � it�s certainly not back breaking or teeth chattering. On a motorway run
I�d be hard pushed to notice any difference between stock and new. I�m even tempted to try dropping the suspension another
10mm
So my conclusions are quite simple � if you�ve had enough of DRC issues then swapping over to the Bilstein is certainly the way
to go. It�s a quality product (as I keep saying) that really can be adjusted to whatever you want. If you want to keep the OEM look and
ride quality then it can be done. If you want it slammed to the ground with full on driving attack in mind it can also be done.
Rich.
| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: MaQQu
S6 vedrustus peaks olema veidi jäigem (ehk ka mõni mm madalam), muu veermik identne. |
Netist leidsin sellised andmed (A6-ga võrreldes):
S6 -10 mm
RS6 -30 mm
RS6 Plus -40mm
Samas ei maksa ära unusta, et RS6 ja RS6 Plus kasutavad kõrgema profiiliga rehve kui S6.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 05.01.11 00:11
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väljalase
Milltek pakub 2.75" väljalaset ning nii 100seid kui
200seid katalüsaatoreid.
Dahlbäck'il on seevastu kolm tolli algus.
Ka Supersprint'il on oma pakkumine olemas: Oversize 2 X Ø 70mm
⇒ 2 X Ø 65 mm system, 100% Stainless steel.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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kassu
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.12.03
Asukoht: tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: Audi A8 D4 Lang
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postitati 21.08.11 11:40
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RS seeria ostuabi
Tere
Seoses suurenenud sissetulekutega ja läheneva talvega on tekkinud vastupandamatu soov soetada kiire nelikveoline Audi ehk midagi RS seeriast. Alla
300kw ei paku huvi, mistõttu S audid jätaks praegu kõrvale ja 6.0 D3 A8 on rohkem siiski luksusele orienteeritud.
Sõelal siis RS4 ja RS6, ostuhind ca 20k. Automaat või manuaal, ausalt öeldes väga vahet pole. Mind huvitaks täpselt see info, kuidas on taolise autoga
koos elada ehk millised on regulaarsed ülevalpidamiskulud, mis on kitsaskohad ning milliste suuremate väljaminekutega tasuks arvestada, samuti
tüüpvead jms.
Olen eelnevalt omanud A8´t, 7seeria Bmw-sid, CL500 MB jms, seega vast mingi ettekujutus on taolise auto regulaarsetest kuludest.
Kuna audiklubis on palju kasutajaid, kes on vägagi erinevaid autosid omanud, siis äkki leidub mõni praegune/endine RS seeria omanik või lihtsalt
taolise infoga kursis olev inimene. Tänud ette minu poolt igatahes.
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seitsmene
huviline
Registreerunud 10.05.06
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: A8 4,2
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postitati 21.08.11 11:48
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Siinkohal tahaks õnnitleda suurenenud sissetulekute puhul.
Pean pisut vabandama, et ma ei saa RS autodest väga teemakohaselt midagi räägitud, aga tahtsin juhtida tähelepanu 300kW ja S autode suhtele - kui ma
enese sissetulekute samaväärse suurenemise olen ära oodanud, siis S8 on oletatavasti mu järgmine valik (331 kW). Sama mootor on vist ka sama ajastu S6
peal, see peen Lambo V10 derivaat.
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yanekk
klubiliige
Registreerunud 09.11.05
Asukoht: Home Haapsalu
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: Ex S4, S6, A6, A4, Coupe + veel pool praami täit.
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postitati 21.08.11 11:55
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: kassu
Tere
Seoses suurenenud sissetulekutega ja läheneva talvega on tekkinud vastupandamatu soov soetada kiire nelikveoline Audi ehk midagi RS seeriast. Alla
300kw ei paku huvi, mistõttu S audid jätaks praegu kõrvale |
Aga miks mitte teha oma käe järgi kiire masin.
Enda S4 omahind on samase auku aga ma tean suht täpselt millest ja kuidas see masin koosneb ja võimsust saab ka piisavalt olema.
Kuigi ma ei saa aru miks on vaja talveks 300kw masinat.
Emba-kumba kas elektroonika võtab kogu talvise sõidumõnu või ei suuda seda lihtsalt kinni hoida.
Tavaoludes saab enne julgus otsa kui mõni ~200kw mootoriga nelivedusel mootori võimsus talvel.
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kassu
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.12.03
Asukoht: tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: Audi A8 D4 Lang
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postitati 21.08.11 11:55
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Tänud õnnitluste eest.
Kuna ma olen igasuguste liisingute/laenude jms. täielik vihkaja, siis D3 S8 jääb hetkel paraku natuke paljuks, ca 20-25k saaksin kohe välja käia.
Ajakiri EVO on ühes oma pikaajalises testis elanud pikemat aega käsikäes RS6ga:
Link: EVO
"Clocking up so many miles meant we saw the local Audi dealer rather too often for my accountant's liking, the service indicator coming on every
10,000 miles or so. The visits weren't cheap either, a basic 10K service costing around £256, a 20K service a whopping £456. The other major costs
were tyres, which seemed to last 12-15,000miles, (around £800 a set), and brakes, which wouldn't do more than a few laps at a trackday before wilting
into a horrible, juddery mess. New discs and pads all-round were fitted at 10,000 miles and 28,000 miles, costing £927 a time. Supercar performance,
but supercar running costs, too. What wasn't in doubt, though, was the build quality. Despite our very best efforts, the one and only warranty claim
we had was for a silly plastic clip on the luggage cover."
Sõidan max 10k aastas ja tahaks seda 10k-d nautida. Kütusekulu, õlivahetused jne. ei ole üldse küsimuse all. Huvi pakuvad just spetsiifilised
tüüpvead, mille likvideerimine võib osutuda lausa absurdselt kalliks.
Kohe mitte ei soovi ise ehitatud autot, vaid just midagi erilist, mis on juba tehasest tulles väga kiire.
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juks11
huviline
Registreerunud 26.09.02
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 16:30
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Igakell RS6, soliidsem, suurem, automaat jne.
Kindlasti ka vastupidavam, esineb vedrustuse probleeme aga kui see alternatiiviga asendada siis probleem kaob ning sõidumõnu ei kannata. Vastavalt
soovile saab probleemi eemaldada 1000 kuni 2000.
Kuna automaat siis millalgi kast lendab, saab edukalt remontida.
Rihmavahetus iga 60 000km järel, jupid kvaliteetse b osana olemas ning tänu sellele hind madal, pakun peast umbes 500.
Mootori probleeme ei esine nagu 2,7 biturbol.
Meie hooldame enamus Eesti RS6'si ning ma ei ole näinud ühtegi rahulolematut RS6 omanikku, enamus vaatab juba uue kerega RS6 poole.
Muidugi on siginenud juba hooldamata selliseid autosid ning kui sellise otsa sattuda siis on ikka täiesti perses!
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 16:50
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: kassu
Sõidan max 10k aastas ja tahaks seda 10k-d nautida. |
Mida sa nautimise all silmas pead? Kas mugavat ja kiiret või keskmisest oluliselt jäigemat ja kiiret sõitu?
RS6 tüüpvead on selle vedrustus (ca 25k krooni) ja intercoolerid (Wagneri komplekt ca 20-25k krooni). Kui need asjad pole vahetatud, siis nende
vahetus tuleks kohe eelarvesse sisse kirjutada. Käigukasti vastupidavuse kohta on ka negatiivset tagasisidet olnud, kuid mitte valdavalt.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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juks11
huviline
Registreerunud 26.09.02
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 17:17
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: Maku
| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: kassu
Sõidan max 10k aastas ja tahaks seda 10k-d nautida. |
Mida sa nautimise all silmas pead? Kas mugavat ja kiiret või keskmisest oluliselt jäigemat ja kiiret sõitu?
RS6 tüüpvead on selle vedrustus (ca 25k krooni) ja intercoolerid (Wagneri komplekt ca 20-25k krooni). Kui need asjad pole vahetatud, siis nende
vahetus tuleks kohe eelarvesse sisse kirjutada. Käigukasti vastupidavuse kohta on ka negatiivset tagasisidet olnud, kuid mitte valdavalt.
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Vaidlen vastu, viimati paigaldasime RS6'le need odavamad colid, peast enam ei mäleta aga hinnaks oli vist 600 tuuris, sõiduomaduste üle ei
kurdetud.
Eelmine suvi sai coolereid vahetatud ja minu mäletamist mööda maksid originaal coolerid 7 000.-EEK
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 17:27
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Nii palju, kui mina välismaa foorumeid lugenud olen, siis originaal coolerite kohta räägitakse, et need on juba tehasest kehvad. Selles mõttes, et
juba tehasest lekivad ja ajapikku see probleem süveneb, kuni turbo ületöötamisest ära väsib. Seega originaal coolereid mina ei soovita tagasi
panna.
Vedrustusega on selline lugu, et olen kahel-kolmel korral RS6 vedrustuse pakkumise juures olnud ja see hinnavahemik on alati olnud 23-25k. 10k coilide
kohta jään vastuse võlgu. Tean, et neid on võimalik odavamaid saada, kui ei võta reguleeritavat amorti. Samas mina isiklikult ei poolda seda Bilsude
komplekti, sest see teeb "soliidse" auto täielikuks kardiks. See pole enam suur ja mugav vajutamise auto, vaid suur ja ebamugav auto, millel on
popid pidurid ja mootor. Mina mõtleks mingi kompromissi peale. Variante on mitmeid - kasutada S6'le mõeldud amorte ja vedrusid üldse mitte vahetada,
kasutada S6'le mõeldud aftermarket amorte ja näiteks H&R vedrusid jne.
RS6 4.2 biturbo ostuabi, informatsioon ja edasiarendus
EDIT: Raul, mis firma omad need odavamad ca 10k maksvad coilid olid?
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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kassu
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.12.03
Asukoht: tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: Audi A8 D4 Lang
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postitati 21.08.11 17:41
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Suured tänud info eest. Nagu ma saan aru, siis midagi katastroofilist tegelikult ei ole. Rajale/stripile ma minna ei soovi (va mõni jäärada talvel),
meeldib lihtsalt sõita "tempokalt" ohututes kohtades. Samuti ei ole soovi mootorit (ega ka midagi muud) modifitseerida, 450hj võiks olla täitsa
piisav.
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juks11
huviline
Registreerunud 26.09.02
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 17:51
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: Maku
Nii palju, kui mina välismaa foorumeid lugenud olen, siis originaal coolerite kohta räägitakse, et need on juba tehasest kehvad. Selles mõttes, et
juba tehasest lekivad ja ajapikku see probleem süveneb, kuni turbo ületöötamisest ära väsib. Seega originaal coolereid mina ei soovita tagasi
panna.
Vedrustusega on selline lugu, et olen kahel-kolmel korral RS6 vedrustuse pakkumise juures olnud ja see hinnavahemik on alati olnud 23-25k. 10k coilide
kohta jään vastuse võlgu. Tean, et neid on võimalik odavamaid saada, kui ei võta reguleeritavat amorti. Samas mina isiklikult ei poolda seda Bilsude
komplekti, sest see teeb "soliidse" auto täielikuks kardiks. See pole enam suur ja mugav vajutamise auto, vaid suur ja ebamugav auto, millel on
popid pidurid ja mootor. Mina mõtleks mingi kompromissi peale. Variante on mitmeid - kasutada S6'le mõeldud amorte ja vedrusid üldse mitte vahetada,
kasutada S6'le mõeldud aftermarket amorte ja näiteks H&R vedrusid jne.
RS6 4.2 biturbo ostuabi, informatsioon ja edasiarendus
EDIT: Raul, mis firma omad need odavamad ca 10k maksvad coilid olid? |
Ei leki nad midagi, olen neid survestanud piisavalt. Ehk jah mingi tuumafüüsikaga mõõtes võib sealt lekke võluda aga seda tavakasutuses aru ei saa.
Ma ei mäleta mis nad olid aga Sinu nimekaim juhatas mind nende juurde. Ma ise ei telli neid, lasen seda kliendil endal teha aga vist olid mõeldud
S6'ele. Autoomanik on väga kõva võidusõitja ning ta küll millegi üle ei kurtnud tavakasutuses, ehk rinkal jah...
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 18:03
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: juks11
Ei leki nad midagi, olen neid survestanud piisavalt. Ehk jah mingi tuumafüüsikaga mõõtes võib sealt lekke võluda aga seda tavakasutuses aru ei saa.
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Muideks, sellele samale nimekaimule saigi Wagnerid tellitud ja järgmine nädal saab külge. Originaal cooler lekkis nii, et lekke
kohtade kokkulugemise peale oleks läinud rohkem aega kui coolerite vahetuse peale.
| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: juks11
Ma ei mäleta mis nad olid aga Sinu nimekaim juhatas mind nende juurde. Ma ise ei telli neid, lasen seda kliendil endal teha aga vist olid mõeldud
S6'ele. Autoomanik on väga kõva võidusõitja ning ta küll millegi üle ei kurtnud tavakasutuses, ehk rinkal jah... |
Võidusõitjad ilmselt ei kurdagi jäiga auto üle. Keskmine auto omanik aga küll. Samas, kui need olid mõeldud S6'le, siis ehk oli vähe pehmem komplekt.
Igatahes Bilsu coilide komplekt RS6'le reguleeritavate amortidega on päris jäik.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 18:41
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: kassu
Suured tänud info eest. Nagu ma saan aru, siis midagi katastroofilist tegelikult ei ole. |
Siin foorumis on nii praegusi kui endisi RS4 ja RS6 omanikke. Ilmselt lähipäevil ütlevad ka nemad, mis neil öelda on.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Black
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: Q7
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postitati 21.08.11 20:09
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: kassu
Seoses suurenenud sissetulekutega ja läheneva talvega on tekkinud vastupandamatu soov soetada kiire nelikveoline Audi ehk midagi RS seeriast. Alla
300kw ei paku huvi, mistõttu S audid jätaks praegu kõrvale ja 6.0 D3 A8 on rohkem siiski luksusele orienteeritud.
Sõelal siis RS4 ja RS6, ostuhind ca 20k. Automaat või manuaal, ausalt öeldes väga vahet pole. |
RS4 vs RS6, automaat vs manuaal, ausalt öeldes on vägagi vahet. Neist valikuist sõltub suuresti, kuidas see 300+ reaalselt tundub. Eriti kui ühes
äärmuses on manuaaliga RS4 ja teises automaadiga RS6. Viimast kahjuks küll manuaalina ei pakutudki.
Et otsusta ära, kas ajendiks on pigem sõidutunne või imago ja mida sa neist kummagi puhul eelistaks. Kuna S8 kõrvale jäi, siis eeldan, et auto võiks
siiski luksuslaevast vahetum olla.
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Vahur102
huviline
Registreerunud 04.04.07
Asukoht: Põltsamaa,Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: B4 competition & A4 1.9 tdi
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postitati 21.08.11 20:35
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: yanekk
Kuigi ma ei saa aru miks on vaja talveks 300kw masinat.
Emba-kumba kas elektroonika võtab kogu talvise sõidumõnu või ei suuda seda lihtsalt kinni hoida.
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Ma oma 103kw-ga saan küll aru, tuleb suuta kinni hoida lihtsalt
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end3l
klubiliige
Registreerunud 27.06.07
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: 90 3B, CQ NM, CQ AEB-064, 80 1Z, CQ AAN jpm
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postitati 21.08.11 20:58
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Osta parem S6(S8) manual ning biturbota ära. Elad teadmises, et sul on manual kastiga beast ning keegi (eriti audidest) ei julge sulle liiga
teha. Isegi mitte su eelmine lemmik x63AMG. Kui alaväärsuskompleks ei luba ESSIGA sõita ERESS asemel, siis saad alati revalist RS märgid külge
tellida, viimane soovitus küll kerge huumoriga, aga küllalt meil siin autosid, kus ESS on kiirem, kui ERESS.
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 21.08.11 21:01
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Küsin sellist asja, et kas see on 100% paigas, et valikus on ainult kaks autot - RS4 ja RS6?
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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kassu
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.12.03
Asukoht: tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: Audi A8 D4 Lang
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postitati 21.08.11 21:09
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Tänud kommentaaride eest. Nagu eelnevalt mainitud, siis ise midagi 100% kindlalt ehitada ei soovi, ei näe asjal mõtet. Ei soovi osa võtta mingitest
võistlustest ning absoluutselt ei püüdle selle poole, et olla mingis ringkonnas kõige kiirem - sügavalt ükskõik. Soovin enda jaoks piisavalt kiiret
autot ning RS seeria audid on seda kõik. 200+ kw autosid on olnud minevikus palju ning seekord sooviks pügala võrra edasi liikuda.
S8 jääb kindlasti välja ning seda just rahalistel põhjustel.
100% ei ole midagi paigas, kuid hetkel tundub RS6 kõikidest valikutest kõige sümpaatsem. Kuna plaanis on autot kasutada aastaringi igapäevaselt ning
suur osa sõitudest leiab aset kesklinnas, siis on automaat minu jaoks vast isegi boonus.
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