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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 28.09.13 11:45
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RS6 C5 Engine Audi - MRC
RS6 C5 Engine Audi - Audi RS6 c5
Stage 1 Engine map 480-500bhp
Our stage 1 map is the first step to a better performing engine this includes a gearbox map to allow for the increase in power.
From £550+ vat
Stage 1 'plus' map 480-500bhp
Similar to our stage 1 map but with a few more engine tweeks for maximum smoothness and performance however the really benefit of the plus map is the
gearbox map. We have modified the shift patterns and rev limit to allow the tiptronic user greater control over their car for performance driving and
economy. Hold 5th gear at approx 30mph/950rpm for maximum fuel economy!
From £650+vat
st2_full_exhaust
Stage 2 530bhp-550bhp
After extensive development and much time on the road perfecting our stage 2 map we were very happy with the dyno results. A true 532bhp on the dyno
where insufficent cooling is always an issue. Out on the road the cars intake air tempetaures were a massive 20degrees lower than on the dyno.
Free flowing airfilters and a full exhaust system is essential for this setup and we offer various options depending on your preferences.
Downpipe options:
No cat downpipes - race use only
High flow sports cat
Removal of the standard precats
Cat back exhaust options:
Non resonated cat back (louder)
resonated cat back (quieter)
Stright pipes (v.loud)
Our stage 2 map comes with our 'plus' gearbox map.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 27.01.14 19:03
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Dahlback Racing - 4.2T ECU Performance Chip
Product Information
Dahlback Racing 4.2T chip takes your factory 450HP and bumps it to 525HP and 500TQ. Tipchip is
included for this upgrade. Our Stage 2 software bumps you to a massive 590HP and 680TQ!!! Must
have DBR fuel pump, DBR fuel regulator, DBR downpipes, DBR Intake kit and cat back exhaust.
Product Code: 00A-scrambler6
Brand/Manufacturer: Dahlback Racing
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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prj
klubiliige
Registreerunud 04.12.08
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: S8 D4, A4 B9 2.0TQ, Cupra Born
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postitati 27.01.14 23:27
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Sellest kohast soovitan soojalt eemale hoida ning ka numbreid ei maksa tõepähe võtta.
Dahlback müüdi hiljuti ühele tüübile maha, kes sisepõlemismootoritest suurt midagi ei jaga.
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 03.09.14 19:45
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C5 RS6 Avant Avus - With ACE TC & MRC Stage 2
http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=111342
Wagner Intercoolers
Miltek Catback Resonated
ITG Filters
Bilstein PSS9’s
Ace Torque Converter – Now Edge Racing similar to 517 Trans
Miltek Decat downpipes
MRC Stage 2 remap with proven 551.4PS and 815Nm Torque
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 26.03.15 20:26
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KONI Sport shocks now fitted
by gmac78 » Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:07 pm
Afternoon all,
Finally got round to fitting my KONI sport shocks and what a difference over the goosed DRC i've been driving around with. No more knocks or rattles
and feels nice and planted on the road.
Not done any high speed driving as yet to see what it handles like but for normal day to day driving with the occasional blast here and there i think
they will be more than suffice.
Front shocks 1.5 turns from softest
Rear shocks 1 turn from softest and lowest spring perch used.
I'll get some pics posted soon
______________________
by gmac78 » Thu Jan 16, 2014 2:05 pm
Hi, sorry for delay in replying, here are a few pics with the KONI's installed.
These shocks were fitted using the original DRC springs, i spilt the pipework at the accumulators to drain down the lines then simply removed the
hydraulic hoses that join to the shocks. Need to find suitable caps to block off the open ends, however i'll not be fitting DRC again so not much of
an issue at the moment. Only one shock had pressure when i disconnected them, although only one of them looked like it was leaking.
New top mounts were fitted front and rear and new upper suspension arms on the front also. Drive feels nice and tight now with a compliant ride.
I never wound up shocks to full rebound damping, instead opted for a middle of the road setting and as far as i can tell so far it seems to be about
right. You will still feel larger pot holes but nothing like before. The ride is firm but not overly harsh. Running around on 35 profile tyres is
never going to yield a soft ride but thats to be expected anyway.
I'll leave the rebound settings as they are for now and get a proper feel for it, not too much hassle to whip them off again and adjust if needs be.
Once you've done it once removing shocks in the future will be a more efficient operation.
Front shocks come with a cupped lower spring perch similar to the original and rubber seat, rear shocks come with a flat disc as a spring perch which
is a different shape to the front ones supplied ( i thought these were wrong at first but had a drawing sent from KONI in Holland to double check they
were suitable) these utilise the original rubber seat and metal insert that is shaped over it. If you go down this road you'll see what i mean, or
check out the diagrams on VACGAT.
The ride height on the front is slightly lower with the rear being around 10mm lower than it was previous. Sits nice and level now.
The shocks were bought from LARKSPEED for around £535.
Any more questions guys just get in touch.
LINK
PILT
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 26.03.15 22:56
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Completed: DIY DRC removal/swap with Koni Yellow Sports....
Decided to scrap the DRC system and swap to Koni Yellow Sports. After researching the pros and cons of coilovers, Bilstiens, Koni's, KW's etc, I
decided to simply remove the DRC strut assemblys and replace with the Koni's---saving/reusing the most of the other related hardware. I did freshen
the front strut mounts with new oem's.
Seems like the most common route is to install coilovers... Can't go wrong there! But I wanted to retain the same ride height, spring rate and ride
as stock and save some cake. Coilovers certainly would have worked, but once the suspension was dialed in, I would never touch it again. The only risk
I could see swaping in the Koni's was a different (higher) ride hieght... After the swap, the hieght on all four corners is within 1/16" of the
stock DRC system!
So, for about $700 for the Koni's and $80 for new front mounts, a totally fresh, new, quiet, compliant ride was achieved with a much simplier and
robust sytem.... Total garage time: 8hrs. Total savings over a comparable 2Bennet system: $1300.
The ride is slightly less rigid and a bit smoother than the DRC suspension, but still firmer and sporty'er than my 2001 A6 4.2L with factory sport
suspension...
It's amazing how many fittings and splicies are in the system!... No wonder they leak fluid and pressure... Mine was not under ANY pressure when
drained.
The Koni's product numbers are:
Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport
The fronts have about 2.5 full turns of rebound dampening adjustability and the rears have about 1.25 turns... I set the fronts at 1 turn from
softest, and rears at 0.5 turns from softest.
Also, the Koni fronts have only one lower perch groove... Easy enough to cut a groove if ride hieght needs adjustment. The Koni rears have 3 grooves
(approx 3/8" apart)... I chose the middle groove which yielded an oem rear ride hieght.
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23946-Completed-DIY-DRC-removal-swap-with-Koni-Yellow-Sports
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 03.04.15 22:14
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My story with H&R springs and DRC shocks
Jason,
Sorry to hear the news. I wanted to clear up some things about what audi-rs6 said in the past.
The red quoted item below is 100% incorrect. IMHO
The primary reason for high riding 4x4 RS6s after the suspension recall is plain and simple. The dealer tech cuts corners and torques the control arm
bolts with the suspension unloaded. This happens more on the rear than front due to the nature of the job to replace the struts. You see, the rear
control arms need to be removed to replace the rear struts and due to the tight fit the tech just torques the control arms with the suspension
unloaded causing the rear to sit 1/2 to 3/4 inch too high.
If you torque rear inner control arm busings with the suspension unloaded beware of the super rake 4x4 RS6. No matter what springs you choose.
My RS6 #1...a low mile car with the DRC recall sit just fine after the recall. 13 7/8 front and 14 1/8 rear. Now KW V3 what took so long.
My RS6 #2 sit just fine after the recall same as the above. Now Kyle RS6 #2.
My RS6 #3...a low mile bone stock car sit just like a 4x4 RS6 after the recall. I checked the front control arms which were fine then loosened the
rears and loaded the rear suspension before retorque. The end result?? 13 7/8 front and 14 1/8 rear.
A stock RS6 will have a slight rake due to the nature of the body panels but just say no to the SUPER RAKE RS6 4X4 and set the rear control arms
properly. Plain and simple.
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/21207-My-story-with-H-amp-R-springs-and-DRC-shocks/page2
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 12.04.15 06:21
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Gallardo / Audi Brake Rotor Options
I have confirmed the RS5/R8 wave rotors do actually fit perfectly on my car. So that means any of the big brake kits offered for those cars will
fit on our C5 RS6
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31785-Gallardo-Audi-Brake-Rotor-Options
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 24.04.15 18:39
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Downpipe(s) Advice
http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=114958&sid=2d60d460f8451d555b27f4059dc3c913
Postby JCviggen » Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:29 am
Just gut the precats on your OEM downpipes. Same performance. Even if those cheap pipes are welded properly the main cats will be of inferior quality
to OEM at that price point. They're both 200cpi but the Audi ones are actually good.
With decat pipes you won't pass the emissions test. And I would apply the same reasoning as above to the catted Milltek pipes (100 cpi would be touch
and go for MOT)
by Mr Footlong » Fri Apr 24, 2015 1:23 pm
JCviggen wrote:
With decat pipes you won't pass the emissions test. And I would apply the same reasoning as above to the catted Milltek pipes (100 cpi would be touch
and go for MOT)
Not if you believe the likes of Amanda regarding decat and MOT lol..... Regarding the 100CPI Millteks, I have had them pretty well since I
bought the old girl and her emissions have been through the floor at every MOT, they do the job perfectly.
Postby JCviggen » Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:06 pm
No, you would only gut the precats. The nasty restrictive 400cpi cats that are located at the front of the downpipe right after the
turbo. They're only really there for cold start emissions.
The main 200cpi cats further downstream would remain intact. There's little to gain by going fully catless other than sound and
nasty smells.
by Daveperc » Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:08 pm
Gutting the existing DP's takes out the pre-cats - leaving the main cats in place.
If you want a bit more then one can take out the main cats and replace with 100cell "sports cars" - as Footers says, as long as the rest of the tune
is spot on you will still pass the MOT.
No cats won't pass the emissions tests.
Technically they should fail you on any of the above as they are supposed to check the full cat system is to OEM spec - but they can't (especially
removing the pre-cats).
Gutting the DP's (ie pre-cats) is where the big gains are to be had in terms of exhaust flow. Needs a map to take advantage of this though.
Hope that's clearer!
Dave
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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antsu
klubiliige
Registreerunud 26.09.02
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
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prj
klubiliige
Registreerunud 04.12.08
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: S8 D4, A4 B9 2.0TQ, Cupra Born
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postitati 09.06.15 09:29
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Tavaline 01E seal. Midagi erilist.
Muidugi tean rohkem. Tean sisuliselt kõike, mida on vaja teada ning mis juppe vaja läheb.
Kui keegi soovib ümber ehitada, siis saame teha kogu töö alates kasti paigaldusest ning lõpetades manuaalkastiga sobiva softiga.
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antsu
klubiliige
Registreerunud 26.09.02
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 18.06.15 06:42
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| Tsitaat: | Algselt postitas: prj
Tavaline 01E seal. Midagi erilist.
Muidugi tean rohkem. Tean sisuliselt kõike, mida on vaja teada ning mis juppe vaja läheb.
Kui keegi soovib ümber ehitada, siis saame teha kogu töö alates kasti paigaldusest ning lõpetades manuaalkastiga sobiva softiga. |
Kui see tükki küljest ära ei võta või pole ärisaladus siis viska siia umbkaudne eelarve ka sellisele asjale. Ma arvan, et tänaseks päevaks on neid
RS6-si siin üsna palju juba ja võimalik, et kellelegi tekib soov või mõte.
Terv,
A..
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 03.09.15 14:49
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TCU done or not
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78292
30-08-15, 11:16 PM gmac78
Getting the TCU done removes the torque limiter in the gearbox, gives you more control over the gears when in tiptronic mode, activates the lock up
clutch earlier resulting in a more "manual" feel to the box. See if you can hold 30mph in 5th gear? If yes your box will be mapped, if not the box
will hunt up and down between 3rd and 4th which is most annoying. Line pressure within the box may also be increased resulting in a quicker, more
positve gear change.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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Maku
klubiliige
Registreerunud 28.01.03
Asukoht: Eesti Vabariik
Kasutaja on eemal
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postitati 07.01.17 10:02
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MTM TCU, best $125 spent on my car
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/20503-MTM-TCU-best-125-spent-on-my-car
p3u
I've been wanting to get the TCU reprogramed for some time, but didn't want the hassle of the down time of 3 days ( big deal I know) being that I'm
down to one car now. Since I was sick last week I said screw it, I'm not going anywhere, so I pulled it, boxed it, and got it shipped.
On the third day, he rose again....
After UPS dropped it off I put the TCU back in its home and buttoned everything back up. Driving my beast so gently, to make sure all seemed well, the
first thing I noticed is the control of the gear selection. When I told the car to shift, it shifted. I could go as far as keep 5th gear down to
1200rpm/32mph. This I particularly like, as I am always finding my self going over 40 to have it stay in 5th, and many of the roads are 40 limit..
After affirming the car was good to drive I put my foot down and instantly knew I made the right choice. The torque converter goes from regulating to
locking SO much faster, ensuring that all of the power is in fact making it to the wheels as the car accelerates. When you let off the gas the TC
tends to also stay engaged much longer, giving the feel the car is really in a gear like a manual would be.
All in all, the car should have been programed like this from the factory, best mod for the money that you can actually notice, and makes a big
difference. If you are thinking about it, do it, if you're not thinking about it, start to.
Elevens
Well fellows , I went up to Hoppen Motorsports today and got my ECU and TCU done for a $1279 special. You talk about a beast, this thing is now a
Monster. The torque is incredible. I have never been shoved into a seat so hard before. Maybe there's better out there but this certainly satisfies
my need for speed. I dealt with his brother Mike Hoppen, a very nice fellow. Who did all the work right in front of me. A very nice job, chipped both
the ECU and TCU. I believe I saw the TCU's of quite a few of you guys on his work shop table. Believe me you will be pleased. I am thrilled with how
the car accelerates and shifts like a true race car. My next step will be a 540hp Mod, which simply involves replacing the Fuel pressure regulator,
External fuel pump and a software modification. But that's down the road. All in all a very nice experience.
p3u
One thing I noticed tonight, when in tip mod you can no longer use the kick down functionality when you floor it, just keeps it in gear. At first I
didn't like this, but then it started making sense. Tip mode is now a true driver controlled gear change, or at least as close to it as possible!
Elevens, that is a great deal you got! Lowest price I've ever heard of for the MTM ECU and TCU.
AudiRS4ever
The fuel pressure regulator was done in 04 when we did all of the OCT stuff from Stratmosphere. I believe stock is 4 bar and I have a 5 bar in mine.
The fuel pump came from MTM if I'm not mistaken. I think it was because Stratmosphere didn't sell them. Either way, the car pulls right to redline.
Other RS6's I've driven don't do that. They pull really hard right in the middle and then start to taper off after about 5,700 rpms (all of this is
observed at 6,000+ feet where we both live. Probably not as noticeable closer to sea level). I truly believe the reason mine pulls so hard to redline
is the tuning, as well as the fueling. Especially where you and I live in CO. Air/Fuel is always a problem up here. Hope this helps.
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torque addict / in the real world four wheel drive means safety and traction
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prj
klubiliige
Registreerunud 04.12.08
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kasutaja on eemal
Auto: S8 D4, A4 B9 2.0TQ, Cupra Born
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postitati 07.01.17 14:29
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Suht mõttetu jutt.
Lihtsalt MTM-i soft on tehtud tehase uuema tarkvara baasile.
Kõik see jutt seal käibki tehase softiuuenduse kohta - kirjeldabki seda, mis tehase (!) softi uuendusega paremaks läks.
Reaalselt on seal MTM-i softis muudetud ainult väände piirajaid...
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